FAQs
What do I need to view/print Dungeoneering tiles?
Most downloads are Portable Document Format or PDF. That means you’ll need to open them with Adobe Acrobat Reader. It’s a free download if you don’t have it already. You can also download FoxIt Reader for free. It’s not a full-featured as Adobe’s Reader, but it is a lot faster.
Can I request a particular tile?
Please do! There are a couple of methods. One is to comment/vote on current tiles. Vote for the ones you want to see more of. Second is to just email me. Either way, suggestions and comments are always welcome.
When does new content come out?
Right now I’m trying to get new downloads out every Monday and new game content (D100 Lists, etc) out every Friday. So far so good! The new website allows me to queue things up so I can work ahead when I have the time.
Where is X? I downloaded it once and now I can’t find it.
April of 2008 saw a massive redesign of the site. That being said, all the old downloads are still here (in fact, I found one that was no longer linked, and restored it). If you can’t remember what category it belonged to (Tiles Set, Adventure Map, etc), try using the Search feature (upper-right of this page, can’t miss it). If you still can’t find it, drop me an email. I can point you in the right direction, or add it to the list of tiles to build.
How do I put these tiles together?
First off, there is no “right way” to assemble these tiles. A lot of this depends on your personal resources and preferences.
Printing: Print on card stock. Use the thickest paper your printer will handle. This isn’t super-cheap, but it does save a lot of time. If you can’t print card stock, you can print on regular paper, then glue to paper board (cereal boxes for example). Be careful, there’s a lot of color for these tiles and cheap paper will curl, wrinkle, and warp when you apply too much ink to it. My wife and I just found out our new HP has issues with really fancy card stock because it loads and prints out the front, forcing the paper to do a 180 in the machine. Try to look for printers that load from the top (back) and print out the front.
Cutting: I use two things: Paper slicers and X-acto knives
. My wife’s an avid scrapbooker and has a pair of paper slicers that cut long straight lines. Huge time saver. For smaller cuts, use an X-acto knife (with a cutting mat
underneath!). This is another place that thick paper pays off. Scissors? Knock yourself out, but I’m a clumsy oaf and just butcher my tiles when I use them. And be careful! Those things are sharp!
Assembly: There are a variety of tools to try. Paper clips and binder clips provide a so-so connection, but don’t damage the tiles in any way. I’ve used clear Scotch tape for a few things. They don’t damage the tiles too much, but it doesn’t come off and can build up after a few uses. The one method I really want to try is applying magnet strips
to the bottom of the tiles and using them on a metal board. No fuss, no mess. Admittedly, this isn’t cheap either. If you simply want to weight your tiles down, a little rubber cement
and pennies (or local equivilant) or washers will keep tiles from being destroyed by an errant sneeze.
Lamination: I wish! It would work great, but is expensive (unless you work for a school or university where a lamintor just might be lying around). Lamination would make your tiles perminant accessories that would last for a good long time and you can write on them with dry erase markers. A visitor wrote in suggesting clear contact paper
. I haven’t tried it myself, but it sounds great. If anyone knows of another cheap alternative, let me know.
Who Owns These Files?
All images, downloads, and documents (unless otherwise noted) are copyrighted by Brian Rollins. No unauthorized republishing or sale is allowed. No exceptions. Permission is granted for personal duplication and use.


